🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. But, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.